Heavy waves on Hawaii North Shore
Alright boys. Hawaii is amazing, you gotta get out here sometime. The feeling on the water is almost spiritual. Today I visited the North Shore to see what a 10-15ft wave looks like in the flesh...
Heavy shit at Banzai Pipeline. Bear in mind this wave breaks onto 1-2ft of water with sharp coral below, you can see why so many people die here every year.
Hottie about to paddle out. Hot and a good surfer...RESPECT!
My bad self, body surfing the Waimea Bay shore break.
Here's me at the top of a 10ft+ wave, prior to taking a beating onto the sand.Tomoro I will be back to my comfort zone surfing 3-4ft Waikiki Bay on the South Shore loving the "Aloha" longboard spirit. Saying that my feet are cut to shit from the rocks and disinfectant is my new best friend.
HAPPY NEW YEAR Fleetscene!
Cheers
NEIL
posted by Neil Mac at 7:53 am
3 Comments:
whats the weather like out there? looks a bit overcast
whats life like over there other than surfing, what was the deal with that girl?
12:34 pm
Sweet update Neil, doesn't make you any less of a C--T though!!!
12:44 pm
It rained on my day out to the North Shore, but over on the South Shore (Waikiki) where I've been staying at a hostel just off the beach it's been 25 degrees every day.
On New Years I went for a swim in the ocean at midnight...the water was still warm!!
Deal with what girl? The Canadian I stayed with?? Yeh she was hot, as was her sister. Was gatecrashing their family holiday tho, so was on best behaviour.
P.S. today I caught the longest ride of my life. No shit, 100metres of pure longboard fun. I told this Californian on the shore and he gave me a high-5...STOKED!!
11:46 pm
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